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  The Reflector - Online
   

Apr. 2001



President's Message

Portrait of Quent Whitmore

Photo FAQs

Setting Up Your Own Filing System

Photo FAQs

Eric Kissa
Below are some of the questions asked at the "Experts" session, answered now in more detail.

Q.:The Nikon F100 camera does not have a built-in flash. Should I buy the Nikon N80 instead?

A.:Not because of the built-in flash. The Nikon F100 is a pro model and most pros prefer a flash unit which can be detached, bracket mounted, or hand held by using a dedicated cord. When the large main flash, such as the Nikon SB-24, SB-25, SB-26, or SB-28 is cumbersome, a compact AF flash can be used instead. The Nikon SB-23 is small, light, and more powerful (GN 66 for ISO 100) than the built-in flash of the N80 (GN 40 for ISO 100). The NY price for the SB-23 is $ 100 - 122.

The Nikon N80 is a mixed bag. It is quite suitable for an amateur who never uses manual focus lenses, extension tubes, or bellows. This means, no real macro work or copying slides the old and fast way. These limitations, as well as the 1/125 s synch speed instead of 1/250 s and the exposure compensation in 1/2 stops instead of 1/3 stops, make the Nikon N90S look good for a mere $ 120 more.

Many photographers believe that the F100 is the best Nikon ever built but is it worth twice the price of the Nikon N80? This depends on the user.

Q.:Which long zoom lens is the best?

A.:For Canon owners the answer is simple - the 75-300mm/4.0-5.6 USM IS, or if the budget is limited, the 75-300mm/4.0-5.6 III USM. The motors in some independent brand lenses are more noisy and less durable than the Canon motors.

For Nikon, Minolta, and Pentax the selection of a long zoom is much wider. Nikon has two 70-300mm/4.0-5.6 lenses: the entry level cheapy G AF lens without an aperture ring, and the ED D lens which replaced the heavy and sturdy 75-300mm/4.5-5.6 lens (ED stands for low dispersion glass elements). Sigma makes two 70-300/4.0-5.6 lenses in the Nikon D mount, the low cost Sigma DL Macro Super with one low dispersion glass element and the Sigma 70-300/4.0-5.6 APO Super with three low dispersion glass elements. Both Sigmas can reach a 1:2 image ratio. The optical performance of the Sigma APO is outstanding in the 70-200 range but mediocre at 300 mm where the Nikon ED D lens can do slightly better. Both lenses, the Sigma APO and the Nikon ED D, have to be stopped down at 300mm by 2 stops for critical sharpness.

Until very recently, the Sigma APO lens was slightly more expensive than the Nikon ED lens (in NY $319 vs. 300). A few weeks ago the price of the Sigma APO plunged to $219, a real bargain! The lens in the Canon EF, Minolta AF, or Pentax AF mount has the same low price. The price of the Sigma DL lens dropped from $199 to $169 and is now competitive with the similar Tamron lens.

The durability of the Sigma lenses, especially in the Canon mount, has been suspect. However, my Sigma lenses have been holding up well on my Nikons for many years, even when exposed to sand and salt on the beach or being fired at a fast rate of 4 frames/s. My travel combo consists of the AF Zoom-Nikkor 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6IFD, the Sigma APO 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6D, and the AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D lens for low light shots.

Q.:Is a 300mm tele lens sharper than a zoom lens at this focal length?

A.:Definitely yes. At and above 300mm, single focal length teles are sharper and faster than zoom lenses. The drawbacks are a higher price, heavier weight, and limited versatility. A 300/4.0 lens weighs about 4 pounds. The 300mm/2.8 and 400/2.8 are favorite teles for pros who are getting paid for lugging these 7 to 10 pound heavyweights around.


Q.:Why does the electronic flash stop functioning after being fired more than a dozen times?

A.:This problem can have several causes. Assuming that the batteries were good, one possible cause may have been overheating. For example, Nikon warns not to exceed 15 sequential shots when charging the flash rapidly by an external battery pack.

Overheating can damage the flash tube and the electronics. The flash on compact P/S cameras is vulnerable to overheating as well. When the flash feels warm, the P/S camera should be allowed to cool for a while, before using it again.

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Send questions concerning photographic equipment (cameras, lenses, accessories, filters), photographic techniques (other than digital), and film, as well as information on international photographic exhibitions, to: ekissa @aol.com.


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