Jan. 2001
President's
Message
Portrait
of Valentina Donor
Photo FAQs
Photo FAQs
Eric Kissa
Q.: Which
color film is best?
A.: Characteristics of Films
Films differ in their speed (sensitivity), granularity, color rendition, color saturation, contrast, resolution, acutance (sharpness), latitude, color fastness (dark storage, light fastness), and other factors. Official film speeds are given by ISO values, EI is the exposure index actually used by a photographer. Usually color reversal (slide) films are underexposed by 1/3 to 1/2 stops to increase color saturation, whereas negative films are usually overexposed by 1/3 to 1/2 stop for better shadow detail.
Films are now better than ever and the choice is determined largely by the photographers preference and the type of photography performed. Generally, slower films have a finer grain size and a better color rendition.
Slide (Reversal) Films
Some photographers prefer to use only one film and know it well, whereas others like to use several films and choose a film most suitable for the particular application. It is easier to learn photographic techniques with one film and avoid film to film variations. A good versatile general purpose film is the Fuji Sensia (RA) 100. This film is economical, easy to use and forgiving because of its wide latitude. EI values ranging from 100 to 200 can give good images. Color saturation is moderate and skin color is satisfactory although not great.
I prefer to use different films for different applications. These are my preferences:
High image quality: Fuji Provia 100-F (RDP-F), ISO 100, has the smallest grain size of any slide film, very good skin tone, and moderate color saturation. Before Provia 100F arrived I used Ektachrome 100S, another very good film.
Enhanced color: Ektachrome 100VS (ISO 100) has replaced Fuji Velvia (ISO 50) in my camera bag, although Velvia is more punchy, sharper and has a much finer grain. Ektachrome 100VS is at least one stop faster (many pros expose Velvia at EI 40) than Velvia, is less contrasty and has better greens. Its lower cost "consumer" version, Elite BX, is almost as good. The vivid colors of the enhanced films add impact to the scene but neither Velvia nor Ektachrome 100VS produce a skin color suitable for portrait work.
Medium speed film: For handheld shots with a long tele and a polarizer, an ISO 100 film is just too slow. A medium speed film is then needed, in spite of a slightly lower image quality. Ektachrome E-200 is my preference in the medium speed class. It can be pushed one stop to EI 320. A two stop push results in excessive contrast.
High speed film: A lower color saturation and larger grain are the characteristics of this film class used for sports or low-light conditions. Sensia 400 (RH II) was my favorite because of its reasonable color rendition and a moderate grain size. However, the new Provia 400F (RHP-F) is a greatly improved film with a grain size rivaling that of Ektachrome E-200. Tests will indicate if Sensia 400-F can replace E-200 and reduce the number of different films needed.
Other films: Kodachrome KM (ISO 25) and KR (ISO 64) have fine grain, true color and outstanding dark storage stability. Fuji Astia (RAP) (ISO 100) produces true colors and excellent skin color. Tungsten films are needed for incandescent lighting. I have used tungsten films in daylight for special effects.
The use of several films is not without problems. In order to change the films in the camera the film is rewound and the number of exposures is marked on the cartridge. This cumbersome procedure is even worse for Nikon users. Nikon cameras do not have the reversible option of leaving the film leader out (a modification by Nikon service would be needed). The only practical way is to use several camera bodies, each designated for a certain film. This sounds like am expensive proposition but not necessarily. When buying a new camera, the older camera can serve as a second body. Two cameras are needed anyhow, when traveling or shooting an important event, such as a wedding.
Color Negative Films: Several very good color negative films are available. I use Kodak Royal Gold 200 (RB) for general shooting and Portra 160VC for portraits.
Q.: How do I buy a used lens?
A.: The appearance of the lens will tell you how the lens has been used. Examine the glass surfaces for scratches and abrasion of the lens coating. Look through the lens for absence of fungus or dust. Check the filter thread. Test the mechanical condition of the lens, the wobbliness of the lens barrel when extended (zoom lenses), make sure the diaphragm is operating freely. If everything is satisfactory, photograph a brick wall at different apertures and focal lengths (zoom lenses). This simple although somewhat crude test will tell you (a) the overall sharpness, (b) distortion, (c) uniformity of illumination (light fall off, vignetting), and (d) exposure constancy. Use a fine grain narrow latitude film for this test.
A good used lens can be a bargain. Admittedly, a new lens comes with a warranty and is up-to-date optically and mechanically. However, if the latest technology is not needed, the used lens market may be the place to find considerable savings. (Try eBay.com, editor’s note)
Send questions concerning photographic equipment (cameras, lenses, accessories, filters), photographic techniques (other than digital), and film, as well as information on international photographic exhibitions, to: ekissa @aol.com.